Pine forests, glacier-fed rivers and valleys form Azad Kashmir in the northern regions, while lakes and more temperate regions such as Mirpur, Kotli and Bhimber are found in the southern regions. One can wake up in a hot and bustling city and spend their evening at a place that requires a jacket to be worn and where there is just the sound of the river.
Officially known as Azad Jammu and Kashmir, it has a population of about 4.3 million, with Muzaffarabad as its capital. In any map of Azad Kashmir, one will find ten districts namely Muzaffarabad, Hattian Bala (Jhelum Valley), Neelum, Bagh, Haveli, Poonch, Sudhnoti, Kotli, Mirpur and Bhimber.
The most loved valley in Azad Kashmir, with a river running beside the road for hours. You will find waterfalls, forests and small villages all the way up.
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A small village that works as the base for the upper valley. You can rest here before heading to Arang Kel.
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A green plateau village above the river, reached by chairlift and a hike. The meadows and wooden houses make the effort worth it.
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A quiet riverside town in Neelum Valley, known for its ancient ruins. It is a good place to slow down.
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A green valley along the road out of Muzaffarabad. It is an easy day trip with river views and small towns.
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The gateway to Azad Kashmir from Punjab, set beside Mangla Lake. A good first stop for a softer introduction.
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Rogan Josh
Gushtaba
Modur Pulao
Yakhni
Kashmiri Chai
Harissa
Food in Azad Kashmir is hearty and flavorful, with cold weather in mind. Begin your day with Kashmiri chai, which is either pink or salty, along with a bread freshly baked by the local bakers. For lunch and dinner, try Rogan josh and Yakhni. You can have Gushtaba and Modur pulao on special occasions.
In northern Azad Kashmir, the best food comes from local family restaurants and guesthouses. River trout is freshly cooked, while the home-cooked food is always better than anything in the menu. In Mirpur and south Azad Kashmir, you will find more Punjabi style Karahi and Tikka because of the proximity to Punjab.
The roads in Azad Kashmir are mainly mountain roads. Thus, traveling through them will take much more time than the actual distance covered. In fact, Muzaffarabad from Islamabad will take approximately 3 hours, and the distance to Mirpur is approximately the same. Getting to Kel from Muzaffarabad in the Neelum Valley requires an entire day, thus making an overnight stay necessary rather than rushing.
A private vehicle with a driver is the best way of traveling. However, if you go to Neelum Valley, then it is recommended to rent a jeep. The shared vans cover all the major destinations, and the ride-hailing apps work in Mirpur and Muzaffarabad. You need to make sure that the weather is clear when traveling to Azad Kashmir since the weather there is changeable. The weather in Bagh Azad Kashmir and the upper valleys is cool and rainy, while in Mirpur Azad Kashmir and Dadyal Azad Kashmir weather is hot in the summer and mild in the winter. Non-Pakistani citizens should check permit rules beforehand.
Where you stay depends on your route. In Neelum Valley, riverside guesthouses in Kel and Sharda are the best choice. Rooms are simple, but the views and the quiet are the reason you came. Muzaffarabad has the widest range of hotels and works well as a base for Jhelum Valley or as a stopover before heading north. If you are looking for hotels in Mirpur Azad Kashmir, stay near the main city center for easy access to restaurants and shops, or near the Mangla Lake side for a quieter stay with water views. Mirpur has the most modern hotels in the region, which makes it a comfortable choice if you are arriving from Punjab. Book ahead in summer and during holidays, as popular areas fill quickly.
Few places in Pakistan fit this much variety into one small region. You can walk through pine forest, cross a river by chairlift and sit beside a huge lake in the same trip. Every district feels different, from the green hills of Bagh and Haveli to the busy university town of Kotli, home to the University of Kotli Azad Jammu and Kashmir, and the warm plains of Bhimber. It is also easier to reach than most people think. Mirpur and Muzaffarabad are only a few hours from Islamabad, and the valleys reward even a short trip. Add warm food, welcoming people and travel costs far lower than a similar mountain holiday abroad, and you have a trip that gives you a lot for very little.
